Road trip to Portugal
Anne Stevens traveled to Viana do Costelo to go wing foiling, windsurfing and surfing
It was that time of year again - vacation was coming up. This time, I was lucky enough to schedule my vacation days so I could spend them with friends. We were heading to a surf spot on the Portuguese Atlantic coast that I hadn’t visited before.
Our destination was Viana do Costelo. That’s a mere 2,300 km from North Rhine-Westphalia - driving alone, with a one-year-old Australian Shepherd as my companion. His name is Pelle, and he’s been with us since he was a puppy, even back in Croatia.
The question was whether he would be up for such a long drive. So we planned several stops along the way. My friends were able to leave a week before me and were already at the spot by the time I set off.
We stopped for our first overnight stay after driving about 600 km, in the small town of Sezanne. We had a peaceful night at the free RV park right in the center of town.
Then we continued on, a good 900 km to our next overnight stop in Moliets. It felt like Pelle handled the drive even better than I did. I’d actually been hoping for a surfing session there, but the waves weren’t exactly inviting.
So the next day, I set off again toward Viana do Costelo. I had picked out a scenic spot to stay the night in Las Medulas. The rugged rocky landscape was formed by former gold mines from the Roman Empire and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
From Las Medulas, it was only 3.5 hours to Viana, and I was eagerly looking forward to my first day of water sports.
We've finally arrived. We'll quickly find a shady spot at the Orbitur campground and then say hello to all our friends.
From the campground, you just have to walk across a dune and you’ll find yourself at the spot, which is sheltered behind a long breakwater at the mouth of the Lima River.
My friends gave me a quick briefing on the spot, since wind was expected today. In Viana do Costelo - much like in Talamone, Italy - there are thermal winds when the weather is nice.
The waves were pretty small that day, and with the wind coming from the right, I hadn't quite got the timing right to make the most of the swell's push. Still, I had a blast out on the water.
The next day was supposed to bring some really strong winds. Since even the 3.5-meter wing had become too big for me, I headed back out onto the water with my windsurfing gear. The 3.7-meter sail was well-filled with wind, and I tried to catch a few small waves.
My friends, who included both windsurfers and wing foilers, had already gotten used to the conditions and were clearly having a great time. I still couldn’t quite get the timing right, and the many rocks along the shore - which you could only really see at low tide - were holding me back even more. You really have to get a feel for the situation first.
A day later, the wind picked up again toward evening; the thermals kicked in late, and I had my third really great - albeit wave-less - wing foil session in a row.
Located in Viana do Costelo, the Orbitur campground sits on the southern bank of the Lima River. To visit the beautiful old town, you can either drive or walk across the Ponto Eiffel (designed by Gustave Eiffel), or take the small ferry that crosses the Lima estuary once an hour.
Every morning, Pelle and I would head to the beach from the campground for a quick check. He could run around there, and I enjoyed looking out at the sea and listening to the waves.
The forecast called for swells over the next few days. However, it also predicted bad weather and only light, almost onshore winds. It was hard to get airborne while winging, and I didn’t really enjoy myself in those conditions - I hadn’t signed up for rain and North Sea conditions.
We decided to spend the next two gloomy days going on outings together into the countryside and visiting cafés and restaurants. Time flew by, and before we knew it, the next two sunny days of surfing were just around the corner.
The waves weren't as great as before, but my timing was better, and I had two really good days with some great rides. Now I could get a sense of the potential this spot has.
As always: you should leave when things are at their best. Well, it was more because there wasn’t any wind in sight for the coming week. The journey home began.
While my friends headed straight to San Vicente, I had planned a detour to the Pico de Europa National Park.
As you’ve probably read here before, I love driving off the beaten path, so Pelle and I took a breathtaking drive through two stunning national parks. Once we arrived at the beautifully situated campsite in Posada de Valdeón, we immediately set out on a fantastic hike through the spectacular mountain scenery.
Unfortunately, my hope of catching a wave or two in San Vicente the next day didn't pan out. Even a little further on in Zarautz, there were no waves or wind in sight.
We spent another pleasant evening there with friends, and then it was time to say goodbye. The two-and-a-half-week vacation flew by.
There weren't any waves for me at our next stop in Mimizan either, but for Pelle and me, it was still a really nice way to wrap up our trip on the Atlantic before heading home.
When it came to catching waves - especially just surfing without a sail or wing - I didn’t really have much luck on this vacation. Was it worth driving such a long distance all the way to Portugal four days in a row?
Given the conditions I was lucky enough to experience, maybe not necessarily, but for spending a vacation with friends and lots of like-minded people, definitely. Viana do Costelo is a paradise for water sports enthusiasts, and the beautiful natural surroundings and many places worth visiting in the area are more than worth the trip.
August 21, 2025 © WING DAILY | text: Anne Stevens | photos/graphics: Anne Stevens | translation: DE
